Stockpile [money questions]
May. 29th, 2017 05:56 pmI'm wondering about two general rules-of-thumb. These are pretty recent concepts for me because up until the current postdoc position I really didn't have the luxury of considering them (see: student loans, non-unionized postdocs, grad school underpayment).
1. What proportion of one's income should one be attempting to sock away into savings, and into what sorts of categories should one consider allocating the sockings? The different places where I have postdoc'd have offered various random flavors of retirement accounts, which I am mostly ignoring for now. I'm currently socking slightly over 10 percent but I wonder if I should do more and scrutinize my frills.
2. How much avocado toast should one forego in order to make a house down payment? (in case you don't understand the reference) In other words, what proportion of a house's price should one have on hand for a down payment, generally speaking?
Two weeks ago, I went over to the house across the street, which had a "for sale" sign up. The asking price made for an interesting thought experiment: if I allocated my entire current salary to house payments and there was no interest involved whatsoever, it would still take 13 years to pay for it. It's a "cozy" 3 bedroom, 1 bath place. Granted, this is in El Cerrito, and we're experiencing another national housing price crescendo.
1. What proportion of one's income should one be attempting to sock away into savings, and into what sorts of categories should one consider allocating the sockings? The different places where I have postdoc'd have offered various random flavors of retirement accounts, which I am mostly ignoring for now. I'm currently socking slightly over 10 percent but I wonder if I should do more and scrutinize my frills.
2. How much avocado toast should one forego in order to make a house down payment? (in case you don't understand the reference) In other words, what proportion of a house's price should one have on hand for a down payment, generally speaking?
Two weeks ago, I went over to the house across the street, which had a "for sale" sign up. The asking price made for an interesting thought experiment: if I allocated my entire current salary to house payments and there was no interest involved whatsoever, it would still take 13 years to pay for it. It's a "cozy" 3 bedroom, 1 bath place. Granted, this is in El Cerrito, and we're experiencing another national housing price crescendo.
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Date: 2017-05-30 02:08 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2017-05-30 07:13 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2017-05-30 08:36 pm (UTC)We are happy to host you ANYTIME BTW!
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Date: 2017-05-31 04:09 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2017-05-30 02:54 am (UTC)Generally you want 20% for a down payment in order to avoid having to pay extra for mortgage insurance that most lenders would require. I'm also guessing that having that much makes it easier to get a loan and get a better interest rate since you've then demonstrated to the lender that you are able to manage money well enough/are paid well enough to get to that point. And of course bigger down payments = smaller monthly payments and less overall interest to pay.
Do you have an IRA?
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Date: 2017-05-30 03:54 am (UTC)They're also likely to be nervous if your mortgage payment exceeds about 1/3 of your income.
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Date: 2017-05-30 04:43 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2017-05-30 04:42 pm (UTC)Y'know, I should probably open an IRA as a starting point.
I'm hearing the 20% from a couple people, so that sounds like a good rule of thumb for me to keep in mind. And of course you just went through the whole house-buying adventure and thus have good up-to-date information. Thank you!
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Date: 2017-05-30 07:21 pm (UTC)I max out my employer contributions, max out my IRA (except maybe this year because house), and then save extra into a mutual fund. As a postdoc I didn't save the extra because I didn't have it.
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Date: 2017-05-30 07:16 pm (UTC)Socking away: You should do as much as you can in a tax-advantaged way. So if you're working with an IRA (either Roth or traditional), $5,500 per year. I would recommend Roth for you since a) it's more flexible (you can take out what you put in [not earnings] without penalty for any reason), and b) your income might be taxed at a higher rate in retirement. Then sock away other savings in cash accounts on top of that--whatever you can.